Answer- Yes It Does!

Today is my final day in Banff NP.  It has been an incredible experience!  Since the boys and I were at Glacier NP in Montana in 2001, and I first heard of Banff I have wanted to visit.  It only took me 18 years, but the wait has been worth it.

There are three major sights I want to see today, and I suspect each will be crowded since they are so popular.  Better get an early start!

I leave the hotel at 6:30 without breakfast...it doesn’t start until 7 but doesn’t end until 11...heading to Johnston Canyon.  I arrive at 7:30 to a nearly empty parking lot which surprises me since it is usually full with a long line of cars parked along the parkway.  

I hike through the uneven wooded path mostly in silence except for the tap of my spiked walking sticks.  We have been cautioned to carry bear spray, but I figure if a bear and I get that close, I will just pass out from fright!  Forget the spray and hope my poles make enough noise to keep a bear away.

It’s only 1/2 mile each way, and I meet an occasional early bird.  We smile and say, “Hello!”  One man tells me to keep going; “It’s worth it!”

The trail meanders along a rushing stream with small falls in the valley and sometimes at the top of the gorge.  I wonder if this is it, but I keep walking.  This doesn’t seem “worth it” so far.

I hear thundering water before I see the falls crashing from the ledge above and rushing downstream.  I duck and enter a small cave opening up to a small viewing platform.  Absolutely stunning!  

A fine mist from the fall’s spray is carried by the breeze and covers me, and I enjoy getting soaked in this beautiful place.  The noise is so loud you couldn’t carry on a conversation, and I try to videotape it but without wireless there is no sound.

More people are waiting for turns on the platform so I reluctantly leave evidently looking worse than I thought.  One little girl sees me wet and gets all big-eyed and a look of horror comes over her face!

The trail is packed on my return trip, and I am so glad to have come early.  However, most don’t seem to meet my eye or return my greeting.  Maybe they think this crazy person jumped in!

I head back to the hotel for a late breakfast and a short nap...and a drying out....before checking off my next two activities.  I’m tired since I was fighting witches all night in my dreams.  No idea where that came from!

An animal jam is ahead on the parkway caused by a huge grizzly bear!  I pull behind a car but can’t get a good picture through my windshield so I open my car door to film between my car jam and door.  The people in the car across from me frantically wave their arms and pantomime, “Stay in your car!”  I know I’m old, but I am not stupid!

I ignore my neighbors while the grizzly entertains us for 20 minutes.  He is a beautiful soft light brown with a huge hump on his back and a silver streak on his side.  

He is feeding on vegetation by the roadside, gets bored or full and crosses the road between cars.  Unfortunately, this means I am photographing him into the sun.  After sitting and wriggling his butt and scratching his back, he finally decides to continue his stroll nonchalantly until fading into the woods.  Awesome!

I know I am not suppose to use a hand-held phone while driving.  Don’t know if a camera counts but wanted to show a few shots of the scenery driving on the Trans-Canadian Highway in Banff.

Breakfast, nap, shower, dry clothes, and time for a cruise on Lake Minnewanka.  Standing in line, I chat with a family from Portland but originally from the Philippines.  We talk about Portland and my visit along with Michael’s trip and accident on his vacation.  Both parents ask if Michael was still in the Philippines; I think they were going to send word to family to help him!

This large glacier fed lake was created from a much smaller one during the WWII years by a dam to produce hydroelectric power.  Individual boats are available to rent, but I choose an hour cruise with commentary.

Minnewanka means “lake of many spirits” according to the First Nation People.  They believed the lake held two spirits, one good and another evil.  The evil spirit’s face was imprinted on the rock wall which surrounds the lake ready to cause havoc whenever possible.

However, the good spirit was also present as evidenced by his facial profile in stone to protect visitors to his lake.

I have a short stop to view another bear in a field before he is out of sight.  The family on the boat had not seen a bear yet.  Where are they?

Final stop is a lake I was told not to miss.  It is near Lake Louise which is an hour’s drive, but I’ve heard it is even more beautiful.  As I mentioned earlier, Lake Louise was so crowded on my original visit I was not impressed.  The parking lot for Moraine Lake was full and closed on my first visit, but today it’s later in the day plus a weekday so I will give it another try.

Yes, parking lot is open, and I walk down towards the water.   How many superlatives can I use when one sight exceeds the next!

Moraine Lake is called “the valley of the thirty peaks” which surrounds it.  The image is so beloved that it is depicted on the reverse side of the Canadian twenty dollar bill.  Beautiful turquoise water, snow capped peaks, and a hanging glacier greet a more tranquil setting than its busy neighbor.  

Multi-color canoes line the dock ready for tourists.

Here you can sit and think and pray.

I am not photogenic.  I either shut my eyes or squint and wrinkle my forehead or smile too big or not enough or it’s a lopsided grin.  Point a camera at me, and it often ruins a perfectly good picture.  On this trip, I discovered selfies which only include part of me.  Maybe my hat or hair and sometimes my sunglasses with incredible views in the background.

It is my way of saying, “I was here”, without regretting taking the shot.  Works for me!

It is difficult to say “goodbye“ to this amazing place.  It took me 18 years to get here, and I may never return until the boys sprinkle some of my ashes to mingle with the dust and the sunsets.

Only the thought of seeing my family and sharing hugs and kisses with them and reconnecting with friends make the thoughts of returning home and my life worthwhile.

So, I think I will look for more wildlife on the Bow Valley Parkway especially since I know I won’t be trapped and miss my flight tomorrow.  I have developed a system of driving slowly...about 25 mph...with the windows open but no radio, no electronics, and of course, no talking.  It’s only me, remember!

I have seen mountain goats too numerous to count, along with a herd of bighorn sheep, deer, and elk.  My bear count is eight!  I haven’t seen a male elk nor a moose.

It’s a quiet night on the parkway...not many cars, no bicycles, a solo jogger.  A couple of cars are parked ahead, and they have spotted a male elk in the woods.

It takes me several minutes to find him.  He is still and silent and majestic with a huge rack of antlers in velvet.  He stands watching me and finally sits while I look out the window and tell him how beautiful he is.  Too bad some branches prevent the perfect picture!

I ask if he is the King of the elk since he definitely looks it!

Aahhh!  Thank you, Lord, for an incredible end to my journey.  I return tomorrow after 4 weeks of solo travel, but I always meet and talk with people along the way so rarely do I feel lonesome.

I have seen so many fabulous sights.  My pictures do not do justice to the beauty and sheer awesomeness of the Pacific NW and the Canadian Rockies.  I have reinforced the knowledge that I am a country mouse.  While cities offer a lot to visitors, I am always glad to leave and return to nature.  Williamsburg is enough of a metropolis for me!

Thank you again, Lord, for protecting me on my journey, adding some insight and humor along the way, reminding me to trust in you, providing gorgeous weather especially recently when the forecast was 60% showers, and for giving me the opportunity to see the beauty of your creation!

I’m going home!

Does It Get Better Than This?

Only two more days to do everything I want to do in this amazing place.

I better get started!

In 1883, three young prospectors noticed steam rising over one of the mountains and investigated.  Climbing down into a hole on a tree trunk ladder, they found a cave filled with stalactites and warm water bubbling upward with a sulfuric smell.  They thought they had found “liquid gold.”

The men promoted their discovery building a rough lean-to shack for guests.  

Warm springs had been acknowledged for centuries in Europe to cure physical and emotional ailments.  The smell was due to hydrogen sulfide, H2S, a gas released from organisms living in the springs.

Unable to legally claim their discovery since it didn’t fall into mining or agricultural categories, the government decided to make this hot spring available to all Canadians.  In 1886, the basin was enlarged and a bathhouse was built with stone from Mt. Rundle nearby.

Guests were encouraged to swim and drink the mineral rich water for relief from a wide variety of ailments including rheumatism, digestive problems, stress, and gunshot wounds!

In 1887, the Cave and Basin was the foundation for Canada’s first national park, Rocky Mountain Park whose name was later changed to Banff NP.  Today, this park is the most visited one in Canada with over four million visitors a year.

Although the bathing pools have been filled in, the outline remains along with the original stonework and views guests would have enjoyed.

On a tour, I learned some interesting information.  Natives used buffalo horns to carry hot embers to different camp sites when they moved.

The natives used parts of the wild rose to extract Vitamin C and the bark to smoke for religious ceremonies.  It is now Alberta Province‘s native flower.

Beauty surrounds you here, and it’s hard to stop taking pictures.  Glad this isn’t film that has to be developed!

An ideal way to experience the area is to ride the Banff gondola to the top of Sulfur Mountain at over 8,000 ft.  I start up and all I can say is, “Oh, my gosh!  Oh, my gosh!”  It is so beautiful I cry to have the opportunity to see this.  

It is just breathtaking!

At the top are platforms to view the scenery that surrounds you.  How do you pick the best picture to do justice to this place?

The weather is constantly changing here.  I’ve observed rain, snow, and clouds on the mountain tops.  I can imagine living in the mountains and seeing what mood the peaks are in throughout the day!

On the ride down the mountain, I see the other side.

The Hot Springs Hotel is an iconic structure built in 1888 as one of the Canadian Pacific Railroad grand hotels along with the one at Lake Louise.  They used the same stone from Mt. Rundle as the bathhouse building.

Bow River Falls has a nice walkway and boating activities from canoes to rafting to paddle boards.   

However, I am on the search for animals.

A golf course nearby looks like the perfect place for wildlife, but I only find the remnants  where deer, elk, and bear have scratched antlers and claws on trees.

I find two female elk in town on a side street quietly grazing.  They have probably calved and temporarily separated from the herd until the fall.

I wish the three young people giggling and talking while taking pictures would be as quiet.  I finally shush them!

This male deer was practicing his contortions by the river.  Wonder if he got that itch scratched!

I drive to the ski resort which is a mountain bike trail in the warmer months.  Pretty views but no wildlife. 

It’s dusk so I head to the Bow Valley Parkway, Highway 1A, and drive quietly and slowly.

No moose at Moose Meadows.  Who would want to stay at Mosquito Campground?

I’m finally rewarded with a black bear on a hillside in the distance before he disappears.  Suddenly, a huge black bear is by the roadside totally ignoring me before he shuffles off into the bush.  I think tonight’s wildlife hunt has been successfully!

Bow Valley Parkway is closed 8 PM to 8 AM until later in the month.  I’ve seen the gates, and it is almost 8.  Wonder if I will be trapped here for the night?  Me and wildlife!  Yu-Hu!

Driving towards the gate, I see it is open until it slowlyyyy closes right in front of me.  I’m trapped by a long red and white striped wooden bar!

Where were those bears?

Wondering what to do, I finally see a sign...pull up and gate will open.  Guess I won’t be spending the night in my car.

Mt. Rundle looks exceptionally interesting tonight as the fading light reflects off its slopes and the spines that create the continental divide.

As I park at the hotel, black and beige bunnies jump from the bushes.  More wildlife!

I am still wearing sunglasses when I go out for dinner after 9 PM.  I should probably be going to bed, but it has been such a fabulous day of seeing God’s creation.  The weathermen keep saying 60% chance of rain, but they must not have consulted the man upstairs.  He has decided for it to be gorgeous with incredible blue skies!  

Thank you, Lord!

It’s Cold Up There!

I don’t sleep well anxious not to miss my early wake-up alarms.  I set two alarms on my phone, and then noticed before bed that it was still on Pacific instead of automatically adjusting to Mountain time.  My iPad was accurate, but not my phone, and I couldn’t find a way to change it.  Thank you, Lord, that I noticed, or I would have totally missed my trip this morning!

Maybe it’s time to update the iPhone 5!

I’m taking a tour today to the Columbia Icefields - the largest collection of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies.   It will be nice for someone else to do the driving plus I’m looking forward to the commentary and learning.  There is a 60% chance of rain today, but in the midst of low gray skies, I see a hint of blue.  

As we travel, the blue increases.  Thank you, Lord!

We will also be in part of Jasper NP which is north of Banff.  Named for an old fur trader, Jasper is the largest national park in Canada and receives 1.2 million visitors each year.  People say it’s even more beautiful than Banff.  Motivation to return since I won’t be able to explore the entire park on this trip?

Even though I was here yesterday, the tour stops at Lake Louise, known as the “lake of little fishes” by the First Nation.  The hanging glacier named after Victoria dominates the far end of the lake.

The water color pops with these red canoes!

We spot a grizzly bear walking along the fence bordering Highway #1.  This stretch of roadway was once described as a “killing field” for wildlife.  Fences were erected along with animal underpasses and concrete “overpasses” with a forest planted right on top for animals to safely negotiate crossing the highway.

The Columbian Icefields Parkway opened in 1940 connecting Banff and Jasper NPs and have seven major glaciers along its route.   Initially, it was gravel and nighttime travel was forbidden, but its two lanes are now paved.  Voted one of the ten most scenic drives in the world, conditions can be unpredictable especially in the winter.  Last week, the tour bus was stranded on the highway for 7 hours after a sudden snowfall created a 60 car pileup.  

This area normally receives seven meters of snow each year, and the park service blasts areas for avalanche control.  Last year, one section of the road was closed for two weeks.

When the Crowfoot Glacier was named over a century ago, it resembled a three-toed bird’s foot.  The lower toe has retreated and along with an avalanche, it is now a 2-toed glacier!

Bill Peyto was an infamous guide in the area, and a lake was named for him.  It is spitting a few raindrops as I walk down the path to a viewing platform on a hillside to see his namesake, and I am speechless.

Is this real?

Look at the reflection of the mountains in the lake!

I ask why the color is so intense, and the guide explains that the further away the water is viewed, the bluer our eyes see it.

OR, as the driver explains, they paint it every night!

And then there are blue skies again as we arrive at the Columbia Icefields.

An icefield is like a lake, and as it melts, the runoff creates glaciers that grow with additional snow which compacts and thickens or retreat with melting.  These mountains of ice grind the rocks below them and push a mass of dirt, stones, and debris called moraine to the sides and in front.  As nature’s master carvers, they slowly change the landscape over centuries.  

The glaciers here are 700-800 ft thick with the Athabasca in front...

...the Snow Dome to the right...

...and Double A...

...and Andromeda to the left.  

These glaciers are growing with snowfall at 15 meters/year but melting at 25 meters.  They are slowing retreating, and most people attribute this to climate change.  

1844 was the last year that Athabasca advanced in size.  Currently 5 miles long and 1 mile wide, it is moving slowly 2-3 cm/day.  Named by the indigenous people, Athabasca means “where the grass grows”.  I think they got this one wrong!

In 1952, glacier walks started on the icefields in the summer.  We load into specially built snow coaches to reach the glacier, one of only 24 in the world.  Interesting to note that 22 of them are on the Columbia Icefields and the other two are in Antarctica; one owned by the US named “Ivan the Terribus” and the other owned by Australia named “Snow Coach #24!”

I launch myself along with my hiking sticks, headband, gloves,and two jackets...it’s cold...onto ice 900 ft thick!  I walk and take pictures, and we are invited to fill a bottle with glacier water to drink.  With thousands of feet walking on this ice, I’ll pass!

The sky is brilliant blue, and I can see the compressed glacier blue with my binoculars, and the zoom of my camera!

As we head back to Banff, we spot another bear along the rocky slopes; a black bear...

...and mountain goats walking along the road.

The Skywalk is a glass bridge cantilevered over a river gorge.  

It’s hard to believe, but the distance of my feet to the valley floor is the same depth of the ice I was walking on!

It has been a 12-hour day, and I am pooped.  Besides the ubiquitous McDonalds and a few Burger Kings and Wendy’s,  there are different fast food restaurants here.  I stop by A&W for an advertised wild fried cod burger.  It hits the spot!

And so has my day on the Columbia Icefields!