Oman - Land of mountains and dhow boats and ...

I arrived in Oman with Michael and traveling companion, Robyn, and her brother and sister-in-law, Chip & Kathy Chappell. Chip had suggested that we visit more of the area than the big cities when Robyn and I were planning our trip. We booked 2 nights at a resort in Khasab, the northern part of Oman, but found out at 3:30 the day before departure from Williamsburg that the border visa requirements were changing,  and we might have to cancel. Fortunately we were able to get visas within 24 hours which prevented the hassles we saw other tourists experiencing. 

 Oman is divided into sections surrounded by the UAE. Khasab, a port city located on a northern peninsula where fishing has been the primary industry, has been called the “Norway of Arabia” due to fjord-like coves and mountainous landscape. It’s totally different from the glitz and bustle we left behind in Dubai; a time to relax and enjoy each other’s company as we explored. Michael and I were upgraded to a suite with wrap-around balcony. After this, I need to start staying in nicer hotels! 

 Dinner was in town at an Iranian restaurant, the “Wadi Qada” or as we called it, the Wadi Coti.  I could have ordered an entire lamb...market price!...but instead Michael and I shared a seafood platter - spiced red fish baked whole...I had to examine his face...chucks of grouper and shrimp all coated with fragment seasonings and accompanied by rice. We also shared a corn and vegetable soup which tasted of fresh corn, vegetables and ? mint. They add acid to their soups so a squeeze of lime enhanced the flavor; a trick I plan to carry home. Dinner concluded with the owner preparing tea for us in a bronze samovar. 

 Michael & I worked out in the AM-my personal trainer-then headed to the breakfast buffet before our mountain tour w/ Robyn. Our first stop at a local park was filled with goats grazing...goats are wandering everywhere in this area...and young boys playing soccer. Michael joined them for a little juggling, passing and 6 against 1. They loved keeping the ball away as Michael chased it! 

Our guide turned onto a narrow dirt road which switch-backed upward with perilous drops. Praying not to encounter rockslides nor earthquakes...Michael mentioned that one...we stopped several times for scenic photo-ops and to admire the stark beauty. Amazingly there were goats at the top-1600 meters-which ate our banana peels and sipped Pepsi....the guide’s idea, not mine! 

The afternoon was spent on a dhow boat - a traditional Arabic wooden sailing vessel with long flat hulls traditionally used for trade...now outfitted with cushions to recline and cruise into the fjords while dolphins chased us. Our private tour-we were blessed!...included the 5 of us and time spent snorkeling....some fish and lots of sea urchins. I wanted to take some back for the hotel chef to prepare a dish with the urchin’s edible part, a delicacy. Just found out the umm are the urchin’s gonads! Sorry I missed that! 

H
Arabic food has been interesting-no pork but turkey/chicken sausages and bacon, and a multitude of dishes I cannot pronounce influenced by Indian, Pakistani, and Indonesian flavors. No strong spices but unusual tastes, mild heat and I’ve sampled lots- some with better results than others. 

 The UAE (United Arab Emirates) were formed in 1971 after British rule ended and Sheikh Zayed of Abu Dhabi formed a coalition of 7 separate Emirates each ruled by different sheikhs. Each emirate still has a ruling family, but a government of 40 members...8 each from Dubai & Abu Dhabi, 6 each from Sharjah and Ras-a-Kaima, and 4 each from the remaining ones...make all the decisions and policies. The residents seem to admire and respect the rulers seeing them driving themselves...no entourage...and being out and about in the community. 

 More history for anyone interested: Dhabi’s economy was based on fishing and pearl diving before Japan discovered the technique of cultured pearls. After this, Dubai became a trading center encouraging imports and exports with no tariffs. Abu Dhabi is the largest Emirate and the wealthiest with the majority of oil reserves which were discovered in 1966. It is also the capital of the UAE while Dhabi is the financial, commercial and trade center. Sharjah, the 3rd largest city, is the cultural center where Robyn’s brother is a professor at a local university. 

UAE’s currency is the dirham (DH) pronounced “Durham” and 1 US dollar equals 3.65 dirham. In Oman, a rial equals 2.5 dollars which is confusing because in one country you multiply and another you divide to find an equivalent to dollars. You better be good at math! 

Eight million people live in Dubai but only 20% are Emiratis. The other 80% are foreigners with 50% Indian followed by natives of Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri Langa. Only 0.3% are from the USA! Foreigners can NEVER become citizens; although, we did have one guide who said the ruler may occasionally grant a special request. Foreigners also cannot own a business by themselves. They must have an Emirati partner who owes 51% even if they don’t contribute any funds.  Emeratis are given a free house, utilities, healthcare, education, and large sums of money (about $100,000 DH or $35,000) several times a year for living expenses. 

 Observations: 

*Water is provided free in the room and during tours, but you must pay for it in restaurants. 

*Arabic is written and read right to left so when tour guides schedule a pick-up time in English they may write it, “14:45-14:15”. Go with the flow. *Have not seen a single nail salon which are prolific in the US. As a Muslim country, women are modestly dressed and I haven’t seen any polish. Many women are fully covered in black cotten abayas with their faces or perhaps only their eyes showing. Heaven help them in this heat! Men traditionally wear white cotten robes. 

*Dry heat is blazing hot! Dhabi is also humid since it is located on the Arabian Gulf. Don’t call this body of water what we learned in school-Persian Gulf-since a newspaper writer did and she was thrown into jail for disrespect. There is a constant haze in the area which guides say is due to the humidity and not smog. 

*The falcon is the national bird. They are very valuable, have their own IDs, and travel in their own seat on planes-unless they are flying private. They also have their own hospitals where transplants are performed. 

*Camels are also highly prized and they also have their own separate hospitals. Don’t know if transplants are performed there! 

*I don’t mean to mislead anyone with the title of this blog. When you are young, 60 seems so old. However, when you are in the middle of it, it doesn’t seem old except in the knees! 

 Oman was a wonderful interlude to refresh and enjoy each other’s company. Michael will head back to work, and Robyn and I have multiple tours scheduled. I’ll see Michael for an occasional meal and then spend our last day together before Robyn and I continue our journeys,