Cape of Good Hope and ...

After yesterday in the city, I was looking forward to the coastal drive to the Cape of Good Hope, the most south-western part of Africa.  It is not the most southern tip which many people, including me, believe and the dividing point between the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans.  That distinction belongs to Cape Agulhas about 90 miles south southeast. 

The cold Atlantic waters crash into the warm Indian Ocean currents and turn back onto itself  from the southern African tip to along the Cape of Good Hope creating such dangerous conditions that the early Portuguese sailors called it the “Cape of Storms”.  To encourage exploration, the Portuguese renamed the area Cape of Good Hope.

The drive is similar to the USA A1A along California’s Pacific coast.  Leaving Cape Town, Table Mountain was wreathed in clouds, but as we drove south with the Atlantic Ocean on the right and craggy cliffs on the left, the sun broke through for a gorgeous day.  Sometimes we were at the top of the cliffs and other times we traveled right next to the water.

We stopped for several photo ops along beautiful blue coves including Long Beach where we could see horseback riders below.   As we reached the Cape Point, an animal that we searched for but never found in the bush was quietly grazing along the coastal road.  

We sent up a loud cry, “Ostrich!” as the van pulled over for us to take pictures.  These crazy Americans!  Who would have thought we would see wild ostriches at the Cape of Good Hope!  Africa continues to provide surprises.

The cape is part of the extensive Table Mountain National Park.  People were lined up to take their individual and group pictures by the sign so we joined the queue.  It was windy...hair flying...and rocky as you can tell by my pictures.

Next stop, the Cape Point Lighthouse built in 1857...actually this is the 2nd one...high above the shore on a cliff overlooking the craggy coast.  We boarded the Flying Dutchman, named for the legendary ghost ship, funicular for the ride from the parking lot to the paved walkway and viewing area.  After a few more photos and a quick debate with myself whether to climb to the top where the lighthouse is located, off I went.

 I wish I could remember the number of steep steps...I count in increments of 20s...but the spectacular views and ocean breezes are worth it plus you can rest at the top!  Shimmering sunlight, crashing waves, cliffs and beaches....it was fabulous!

Heading to Boulder Beach and penguins, we saw elands in the distance.  Another member of the antelope family, these are the largest which replaced the kudus which are actually smaller. 

A colony of 2500 black footed penguins live and breed along the rocky coastline near Simon Town.  Although they live in a semi-residential area - penguins can be seen waddling down narrow streets near the beach, these funny little creatures swim up to 30 miles a day searching for food.  Boardwalks have been built for tourists not to disturb the birds which even have little plastic igloo-shaped houses which some prefer to their sandy nests.  

Observing the penguins at close range, their faces and expressions are made for photographs...winks, yawns, beaks which seem to puck into a kiss, and eye coloring too cute to almost seem natural.  It was fascinating watching them interact with each other which included several “picking” on a young juvenile, I think.  This bird was in fluffy brown/beige plumage which was distinctly different than the tuxedo suited majority.  Penguins squawked, dove into the surf, waddled to their nests - it was a bustle of activity and entertainment!

Tonight is dinner in a local CapeTown family’s home.  They were very hospitable and loved talking about their children just like all loving parents.  Their son played professional soccer in Europe so we connected and talked lots of “football”.  

We also discussed the drought and water restrictions and how it affected their lives.  They cannot use the washing machine nor the clothes washer.  They are restricted to 30 liters/person, use hand sanitizer and only flush when necessary.  The dad travels to another area of Africa several times a week where he fills tubs with water for the family’s use.

Tomorrow is our final day in Africa before flying back to the United States,  Our flights carry us 9 1/2 hours back to Dubai arriving around midnight for a 2:00 AM departure and a 14 1/2 hr marathon to Dulles!  It has only recently occurred to Robyn and I why we are going backwards to Dubai before westward to the US.  Lesson for next time, look at flights more closely!

The breakfast buffet today had small yellow berries - gooseberries!  They are delicious and along with passion fruit a new favorite.  We are heading to Robbens Island (Dutch for Seal Island), the site of South Africa’s infamous prison and home to Nelson Mandela for 18 of his 27 year incarceration before the fall of apartheid.

An hour long ferry ride across the choppy waters of Table Bay provides photo opportunities of Table Mountain covered in clouds and Cape Town below including the Olympic stadium shaped like a Zulu woman’s hat.

The island has been used for centuries as a prison, military base, and leper colony and was finally closed in1996.  It is now a living museum, tourist attraction and UNESO site for thousands of visitors each year.  Landing at the pier and boarding buses, we are given a guided tour around the island...19th century village of admin buildings, parsonage, church, lighthouse, military structures, and the quarry where prisoners were forced into hard labor.

Former political prisoners told of harsh treatment working without gloves and only rudimentary tools along with “make work” where stones were moved from spot to spot.  Mandela’s eyes were so damaged from the sunlight that he would not allow photographers to use flashes when he was later in public life.

We arrived at the prison buildings and were greeted by a former prisoner who received a five year sentence for a student demonstration against apartheid when he was 19 years old.  He knew of Mandela but never met him.  We had a question and answer session about a typical day, treatment from the guards, conditions, etc. 

It was a sober realization seeing the bedding....mats on the floor before the Red Cross got permission to supply metal beds in bunk rooms in minimal security and the individual cells in maximum security including Nelson Mandela’s.  In the small recreation yards, some prisoners would attempt to grow tiny gardens and also where Mandela hid pages of his manuscript so it would not be found in his room and confiscated.

Returning to Cape Town by a quicker and smoother ferry, our group prepared for a final dinner at an Italian restaurant nearby.  It has been a great group to travel with, and I’m ready to go again!  A final packing and tomorrow is 24 hours in the air.

My last night in Africa!