Pacific NW - The Beginning of my Adventure!

Pacific NW here I come!

But first let’s start with Northern California.

Great flights to Sacramento with lovely seat mate, Carolyn, from Indiana returning to her hometown for friend’s funeral. She was wearing a head covering, and I asked if she was Mennonite.  She belongs to a similar religious group, the Church of the Brethren.  We chatted about family and travels and shared wry smiles about the man on her other side who was close to using her shoulder as a pillow while he snored!

I chatted with an interesting man waiting for our rental cars.  He was decked out in a stunning camel cowboy hat with a leather and metal band and beautiful boots.  I asked him if he was from Texas?  “ Yes, Madam, I am”.  I laughed and said I was so glad; I was afraid he would say he was from New York City or LA!  He gave me a lesson on hat quality and discussed boots.  Very informative...and his boots were crocodile skin!

I had a 4-hr drive which became 5-hrs due to construction delays to Garberville, CA.  Even though it was early afternoon I was on east coast time w/ little sleep.  Thank goodness for cat naps on both flights even if I did miss the drink cart!  Breakfast was a muffin in Chicago, and I planned to find a light lunch along the way now.  Beware when you travel; eat when you see food!  After I turned off the CA interstate and headed west into the foothills, there was NOTHING!

I saw my first coastal redwood before reaching Garberville right by the road.  Maybe I was just tired, but “Oh, my gosh” was my reaction.  It became the first of many for two full days.

Redwood National Park has been on my bucket list, but I found that the California coastal redwoods are combined into a joint state and national park.  Concerned citizens began saving groups of these giant trees in 1918 and donating them to a conservancy, Save the Redwoods League.  Only 5% of the 2 million acres of redwoods remained after the logging industry decimated them in the 1800’s and early 1900’s.  Many of the best groves were already in state parks before the national park was formed.  Helpful contributors on Fodor’s travel site steered me in the right direction, or I would have missed the most impressive trees!

A nightly wine and cheese reception greeted me at my first hotel.  Realizing I was more sleepy than hungry, dinner became cheese, crackers, salami and a glass of wine.  It was a lovely welcome after a hard day of travel.  Garberville has a cute little...I mean, 1-2 blocks...of downtown which invited a stroll but sleep now and an early morning start meant I would need to return.

Sleep was fleeting as I was up throughout the night w/ a GI bug.  Not fun, but I kept thanking God it was now and not on the plane!  Unfortunately, my toilet didn’t flush and in the middle of the night I hated to call maintenance!  As the story unfolds, I finally got a plunger in the morning.

Thank goodness I didn’t have a roommate!

Breakfast was included, and now I was hungry!  Biscuits and gravy and bacon... with yogurt for some good bacteria for my gut.  Yes, I knew better than to eat greasy foods, but my last meal was leftovers cleaning out my frig before leaving town!  Give me a break!

I also made two bacon biscuits for lunch, and grabbed two oatmeal packets for future breakfasts.  I figured I had paid for two breakfasts so I just expanded my meal opportunities!

I was just south of an amazing....that word again....grove of trees called “The Avenue of the Giants”.  Exiting Highway 101, I soon was surrounded by enormous redwoods right by the road each with a reflector so you won’t run into it.  Duh, if you miss these get your eyes checked!

Accidents unfortunately happen, and with a speed limit of 45 mph, people were zipping by.  I on the other hand was driving 30 mph because I was in awe!  (Yes, boys, there are lots of turn-outs so people can pass the slow pokes like me.)

There is a quiet reverence in the forests of these giants which range from 500 to 2,000 years old.  John Steinbeck said,”The redwoods once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always...from them comes silence and awe.”  “The most irreverent of men, in the presence of redwoods, goes under a spell of wonder and respect.”

Coastal redwoods which differ from the giant sequoias south near Yosemite National Park have been called “eternal” and are the tallest trees in the world.  Their scientific name, sempervirens, means “ever-living”.  They grow best in areas with heavy winter rains, moderate temperatures, under 2,000 ft in elevation, and climates that create banks of daily fog in the summers.  They actually absorbed moisture from the fog through their leaves and needles accounting for 40% of their water intake.

Some interesting facts:

*The fibrous bark which may be a foot thick is filled with tannic acid making the trees resistant to disease, insects, rot and even fire.

*The root system supporting these trees which may reach 60 stories high is ONLY 6-12 feet deep.  However, the network of roots extend for hundreds of yards intertwining with the roots of other trees.  Talk about it takes a village!

*Tree diameters may reach 26 feet!

*Burls develop around the trees where clones of the original tree will sprout when the tree is stressed.  These have a greater chance of survival rather than the tree from a seed.

*The pine cone is the size of an olive and the seed the size of a tomato seed.  Who said size matters!

*If fire does destroy part of the tree at the base, it forms a hollow called a “goosepen” where animals and people can find shelter.

The Eel river runs nearby, and it is a beautiful bluish green.  I was to find out later that this is due to the mineral and gives the water the lovely color.

I spent over 6 hours in this 32 mile stretch of redwoods.  There were no ranger programs, but I hiked 3 short trails, toured the visitor’s center, napped under one redwood, and ate under another....in my car so no crumbs for the critters.  I drove and walked and listened.  The quiet is so deep I felt guilty for the car engine’s noise or the squeak from my shoes.  I turned off the car’s radio since music seemed too foreign here.  I wanted to commune with the trees.  I figured they were older and wiser, and I wanted to learn from them.

Next stop, Trinidad, a quaint seaside town where I checked into a little cabin in the midst of a forest setting.

I try to save money on meals when I travel, but I definitely wanted dinner out tonight.  The recommendation of the Trinidad Bay Eatery was a winner where I was tempted by fish and chips, cioppino, the seafood platter, fried clams.  Oh my!  None of it light but settled on a simple salad and “award winning” by their account, clam chowder.

The salad was beautiful and delicious and the clam chowder good but don’t know about awards.  The blackberry cobbler was tasty, but the chef should mine!  My only regret is I was leaving in the morning without another chance to try one of the other menu choices.

Hopped on Hwy 101 and 1 1/2 hrs later I was in Crescent City, CA. to start my tour of another redwood state park and the official Redwood National Park.  I was warned at the Visitors Center to protect my valuables.  I can take my purse in my daypack but what to do w/ 2 suitcases with everything I need for the next month?  With my suv having no out-of-sight trunk, a helpful volunteer suggested tucking the suitcases behind the front seat to prevent a quick snatch and grab.  I did more than tuck; I wedged my luggage tightly so a thief would hopefully be sufficiently discouraged.  Of course, this meant I would also have to pull...and pull...and pull every stop, but my luggage was safe.  Just like a vehicle chastity belt!

Jedediah Smith State Park is covered with trees, ferns, walking trails and a windy pot-holed dirt road where trees are so close you cannot open the car doors driving through.  I don’t know the speed limit, but I was going 5-10 mph with frequent stops to listen.  I kept expecting noise and sometimes you heard a distant bird but silence was dominant.  Again, awe...wonder....reverence!

Driving through these friendly giants is wonderful but to really experience them you need to walk among them.  I stretched my back bending backwards continually looking up...and up.  The forest floored is carpeted with ferns and the footpaths are a blanket of fallen needles.  It’s a great place for kids to run and yell and release energy, but I heard parents shushing them.  They must have felt it too....reverence!

Between these two parks, I spent another day...me and the trees.  While the oatmeal pack came in handy for breakfast, it wasn’t very good.  I had stopped in Eureka at a Wal-Mart for supplies so lunch was peanut butter and jelly in the shade.  I had to use my finger as a spoon;  should have gotten one from the first breakfast buffet!

A final hike through the Stout Grove and time to leave the trees and head north to the Oregon coast.

Central Oregon and Surprises

It’s early afternoon as I turn east towards a timeshare I have reserved in Redmond, near Bend.  It’s a fairly boring drive until snow capped mountains appear on the horizon dominated by Mount Washington!  Driving the curvy mountainous road is fun for me; a part of another scenic byway - Over the Rivers and Through the Woods.  I’m not kidding about the name!

After unpacking, I finish my grilled cheese for dinner. The timeshare is beautifully decorated and my decks...one off the main area and another off the upstairs master bedroom...both overlook a canyon and stream.

I’m ready for a relaxing evening until the explosions and thumping through the wall begins.  I feel like the room is vibrating and decide my neighbor must be playing a video game on their tv with a shared wall.  I try to do battle increasing my television volume.  Debating whether to knock on their door...or the wall, I call the front deck to complain.  It quiets slightly or maybe I just add this sound track into my sleepy fog on the sofa.

Heading out in the morning, I stop in Sisters, a small western town that makes me think I’m in Wyoming not Oregon.  In fact, the annual Sisters rodeo starts this week.

My plans to drive scenic McKenzie Pass is thwarted by...snow!  It’s June 3rd, but the mountainous pass doesn’t open until after Father’s Day in mid-June.  I’m definitely not in Virginia anymore!

The road is open, however, at the base for 9 miles so I head out to capture some photos of snowy peaks. 

 

Returning to Sisters, I wander through various stores including an antique shop and ReStore on the main street.  I’m amazed at all the western wear and cowboy boots at the ReStore and purchase a Christmas wreath made from a lasso rope and saddle stirrup.  I don’t think the antique mall in Williamsburg will have many of these!

The door to Sister’s Bakery magically opens...Ha, ha!...with the scent of freshly baked fluffy loaves of bread and marionberry coffee cake.  I’ve never heard of this berry which is a combo of a blackberry and a lingonberry.  Discovering new tastes are so exciting...and delicious!

Lunch/dinner is the recommended French Dip at Sisters Meat and Smokehouse - advertised as “an artisanal butchery and eatery”.  My morning yogurt is long gone, and I’m hungry for a full meal rather than a sandwich, but this small business is interesting.  A display case dominates the room with a gorgeous display of beef, chicken, jerky, and cheese.  I suspect these are all products of the real business in the back!

The sandwich is fabulous with tangy spicy mustard, thick beef and a pillowy soft bun. I want to sleep on this bun!  It is accompanied by the best baked beans ever with chucks of ham.  Wonder if I can buy a quart of these beans?

Although I have been pleasantly surprised at the beauty in Oregon, the entire reason for my trip to the state is tomorrow.  Crater Lake National Park has been on my bucket list for years!  I had planned to visit for two days to hike, take the boat ride on the lake, and absorb the atmosphere of this creation.

That is until I discovered that most of the rim roads surrounding the lake are still snow-bound!  The northern and western entrances are closed, hiking trails are covered with snow, and the boat tours don’t start until July!  However, the distant southern entrance is plowed and open along with a visitor’s center and Crater Lake Lodge.  I don’t think this will garner a 2-day visit but even with the 3-hr travel time each way, I want to go.

Tomorrow!

Home, Recovered, and ....

I am now home and recovered from my adventure.  I would add “ ...of a lifetime!”, but I’m selfish enough to want more....more travel, more experiences, more adventures!  People ask what was my favorite, and my answer is spending time with Michael especially in Oman and all the close-up animal encounters in Africa.  

What do I miss?  

Seeing the African sky at night in the bush with stars blazing and the Milky Way in a brush stroke across the middle.  Learning about the Southern Cross and how different the Southern Hemisphere sky is from the northern which only confirms we are a minute moment in time and space.

Seeing God’s creation whether it was the animals in their beauty and originality in Africa or landscapes carved by nature like Victoria Falls or inspired and built by man in Dubai.

Listening to the nighttime soundscape in the bush...hyenas, baboons, insects, and wondering what was just outside your door.  

Incredible sunsets to end the day!  

Hugging my son!

What do I not miss?

Packing and unpacking!  We were in 10 hotels and 10 flights over 4 1/2 weeks.  Only 1 was a 1 night stay, 3 were 2 nights and the rest were longer.  Amazingly, all luggage arrived with our flights which was a blessing.

Wearing the security bag around my neck and under my shirt.  I called it my 3rd boob!  Yes, in lots of pictures that is my bag and not my stomach pooching!

Trying to control my coughing fits during the night, and Robyn and I keeping each other awake with coughs, snorts, and snoring.  She was such a good sport, and I hope I was also.  It is never pleasant being sick but much worse on vacation.  You want to feel your best so you can enjoy what you’ve spent all this money on!

Wearing beige shirts!  I have become a fan of khaki pants, but my Goodwill beige shirts for the bush will be regulated to a back closet corner until my next African safari.

Watching water usage when I shower!

What did I learn?  

That cultures and religions are more similar than different and that we can and should learn from each other.  When you consider all the conflicts in the world, you have to wonder, “People, what is the problem here!”

That I am a country mouse at heart.  Cities are interesting to visit and have a lot to offer but nature and quiet and natural beauty makes my heart sing!

What advice can I share?

Remember that the best travel accoutrements are a sense of wonder and a gift of humor along with a healthy dose of prayer!

Pack light!  Luggage gains weight faster than you do on vacation even if you are not filling it with souvenirs.

Take the best camera with the highest zoom you can afford and learn to use it before your trip.

Listen more than you talk!  You will learn so much, and really, is your life that interesting anyway?

Unplug!  I thoroughly enjoyed days in the bush without wireless and phone reception.  You need to look up and out to see the world not down!

Hope you have enjoyed the blog and “traveling “ with me.  Thanks for your companionship!

Cape of Good Hope and ...

After yesterday in the city, I was looking forward to the coastal drive to the Cape of Good Hope, the most south-western part of Africa.  It is not the most southern tip which many people, including me, believe and the dividing point between the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans.  That distinction belongs to Cape Agulhas about 90 miles south southeast. 

The cold Atlantic waters crash into the warm Indian Ocean currents and turn back onto itself  from the southern African tip to along the Cape of Good Hope creating such dangerous conditions that the early Portuguese sailors called it the “Cape of Storms”.  To encourage exploration, the Portuguese renamed the area Cape of Good Hope.

The drive is similar to the USA A1A along California’s Pacific coast.  Leaving Cape Town, Table Mountain was wreathed in clouds, but as we drove south with the Atlantic Ocean on the right and craggy cliffs on the left, the sun broke through for a gorgeous day.  Sometimes we were at the top of the cliffs and other times we traveled right next to the water.

We stopped for several photo ops along beautiful blue coves including Long Beach where we could see horseback riders below.   As we reached the Cape Point, an animal that we searched for but never found in the bush was quietly grazing along the coastal road.  

We sent up a loud cry, “Ostrich!” as the van pulled over for us to take pictures.  These crazy Americans!  Who would have thought we would see wild ostriches at the Cape of Good Hope!  Africa continues to provide surprises.

The cape is part of the extensive Table Mountain National Park.  People were lined up to take their individual and group pictures by the sign so we joined the queue.  It was windy...hair flying...and rocky as you can tell by my pictures.

Next stop, the Cape Point Lighthouse built in 1857...actually this is the 2nd one...high above the shore on a cliff overlooking the craggy coast.  We boarded the Flying Dutchman, named for the legendary ghost ship, funicular for the ride from the parking lot to the paved walkway and viewing area.  After a few more photos and a quick debate with myself whether to climb to the top where the lighthouse is located, off I went.

 I wish I could remember the number of steep steps...I count in increments of 20s...but the spectacular views and ocean breezes are worth it plus you can rest at the top!  Shimmering sunlight, crashing waves, cliffs and beaches....it was fabulous!

Heading to Boulder Beach and penguins, we saw elands in the distance.  Another member of the antelope family, these are the largest which replaced the kudus which are actually smaller. 

A colony of 2500 black footed penguins live and breed along the rocky coastline near Simon Town.  Although they live in a semi-residential area - penguins can be seen waddling down narrow streets near the beach, these funny little creatures swim up to 30 miles a day searching for food.  Boardwalks have been built for tourists not to disturb the birds which even have little plastic igloo-shaped houses which some prefer to their sandy nests.  

Observing the penguins at close range, their faces and expressions are made for photographs...winks, yawns, beaks which seem to puck into a kiss, and eye coloring too cute to almost seem natural.  It was fascinating watching them interact with each other which included several “picking” on a young juvenile, I think.  This bird was in fluffy brown/beige plumage which was distinctly different than the tuxedo suited majority.  Penguins squawked, dove into the surf, waddled to their nests - it was a bustle of activity and entertainment!

Tonight is dinner in a local CapeTown family’s home.  They were very hospitable and loved talking about their children just like all loving parents.  Their son played professional soccer in Europe so we connected and talked lots of “football”.  

We also discussed the drought and water restrictions and how it affected their lives.  They cannot use the washing machine nor the clothes washer.  They are restricted to 30 liters/person, use hand sanitizer and only flush when necessary.  The dad travels to another area of Africa several times a week where he fills tubs with water for the family’s use.

Tomorrow is our final day in Africa before flying back to the United States,  Our flights carry us 9 1/2 hours back to Dubai arriving around midnight for a 2:00 AM departure and a 14 1/2 hr marathon to Dulles!  It has only recently occurred to Robyn and I why we are going backwards to Dubai before westward to the US.  Lesson for next time, look at flights more closely!

The breakfast buffet today had small yellow berries - gooseberries!  They are delicious and along with passion fruit a new favorite.  We are heading to Robbens Island (Dutch for Seal Island), the site of South Africa’s infamous prison and home to Nelson Mandela for 18 of his 27 year incarceration before the fall of apartheid.

An hour long ferry ride across the choppy waters of Table Bay provides photo opportunities of Table Mountain covered in clouds and Cape Town below including the Olympic stadium shaped like a Zulu woman’s hat.

The island has been used for centuries as a prison, military base, and leper colony and was finally closed in1996.  It is now a living museum, tourist attraction and UNESO site for thousands of visitors each year.  Landing at the pier and boarding buses, we are given a guided tour around the island...19th century village of admin buildings, parsonage, church, lighthouse, military structures, and the quarry where prisoners were forced into hard labor.

Former political prisoners told of harsh treatment working without gloves and only rudimentary tools along with “make work” where stones were moved from spot to spot.  Mandela’s eyes were so damaged from the sunlight that he would not allow photographers to use flashes when he was later in public life.

We arrived at the prison buildings and were greeted by a former prisoner who received a five year sentence for a student demonstration against apartheid when he was 19 years old.  He knew of Mandela but never met him.  We had a question and answer session about a typical day, treatment from the guards, conditions, etc. 

It was a sober realization seeing the bedding....mats on the floor before the Red Cross got permission to supply metal beds in bunk rooms in minimal security and the individual cells in maximum security including Nelson Mandela’s.  In the small recreation yards, some prisoners would attempt to grow tiny gardens and also where Mandela hid pages of his manuscript so it would not be found in his room and confiscated.

Returning to Cape Town by a quicker and smoother ferry, our group prepared for a final dinner at an Italian restaurant nearby.  It has been a great group to travel with, and I’m ready to go again!  A final packing and tomorrow is 24 hours in the air.

My last night in Africa!

CapeTown - Table Mountain to Witch Doctor and ...

I haven’t blogged about our 5 day post-trip to Cape Town in South Africa.  I returned to the states exhausted and jet-lagged, recovering from a respiratory infection, and carrying a GI bug which was perking on the final flight and hit me arriving home.  I was so thankful to have a bathroom close and also couldn’t complain when I lost a tooth crown a couple of days later.  Thank you, God!

However, to be complete I do want to document our final leg of the trip so here it is.

After an amazing 12 days in the bush, the small tourist town of Victoria Falls was pleasant and still seemed like authentic Africa.  Baboons and warthogs roamed the streets and wild elephants crossed the road in front of cars.  Arriving in CapeTown was a jarring experience for me.

A short flight from Victoria Falls deposited our group in Johannesburg which is a major aviation hub.  It was a quick and hurried goodbye to all but 7 of our group along with Noss who were all continuing to CapeTown.   Arriving early for departing flights back to the states and delays and more delays meant we spent an entire day traveling before reaching our hotel in Cape Town around midnight.

I was looking forward to our post-trip since I may never be in this part of the world again.  Cape Town - home of The Olympics, the bottom of the African continent, Nelson Mandela, and apartheid is what comes to mind.  The city is currently experiencing a severe drought, and we were warned there would be water restrictions.  However, we were told tourists would not be affected like the regular population.  Signs in our hotel bathroom stated a 3 minute shower used 9 liters and each flush of the toilet 3 liters.  Stoppers were removed from tubs and sinks so water could not be pooled.  Robyn and I agreed not to flush every time, and as long as I can shower, even a short stop and go one, I’ll be OK.

I will note here that water restrictions have affected tourist attractions.  Every public restroom I visited had signs asking you to flush only if necessary and most sinks had the water turned off or the handles removed so you would only use hand sanitizer.  Again, I think everyone was compliant; although, it did feel weird not flushing!

A beautiful breakfast buffet greeted us downstairs before we boarded a van to drive to Table Mountain, the iconic flat top mountain that overlooks the city.  It was a windy road full of switchbacks before arriving at the lower cable station.  Standing at 3,558’, Table Mountain is frequently wreathed in clouds and closed to tourists, but today was beautiful.

Boarding the cable car, we were told not to hold on since the car itself rotates during the trip to the mountain plateau.  It is an interesting sensation slowly spinning as you ascend, but it gives you a panoramic view of the city.

I initially headed down the cement pathway and then diverted to a dirt footpath watching my step and hoping not to twist an ankle.  I already felt “traumatized” by arriving in the city after the bush and having to battle cars instead of insects.  Noise and busyness and traffic; I needed some peace and nature and less people!  Gazing down into the rocky gorges was definitely soothing to my soul.

I realized our van driver and guide was close behind me, and as we talked and walked, he told me about his many trips to Table Mountain.  He showed me his two favorite places....one you had to jump a crevice to reach the next rock and the other you laid flat on the rock and looked over the cliff!  Getting up wasn’t pretty, but it was nice to escape the crowds and gaze at the city, Robbens Island where Nelson Mandela was a famous prisoner, and the Atlantic Ocean.

Our tour of the city continued with Kirstenbosch Arboretum filled with beautiful gardens and the most gorgeous gift shop.  I’m not usually interested in tourist gift shops but the botanical motifs on the items were striking.  I bought a fabric muffin carrier which lies flat until the corners are tied to form a basket with hand painted birds.  Although most of the garden was not in bloom, there were still enough flowers for me to capture some close-ups.

We walked the old market area which is now a pedestrian walkway and visited Bo-Kaap, a multicultural part of the city filled with colorful houses and cobblestone streets.  History explains that the area residents expressed their freedom by using vivid exterior paint colors.

Lunch was at the marketplace at the Victoria and Alfred...V&A... Waterfront.  It was a beautiful place to walk, shop and eat along with the bronze statues of South African Nobel Prize winners.

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District Six is a former inner city residential area in CapeTown which was populated by 60,000 residents mostly black, immigrants, and “colored” which means mixed race.  During the reign of apartheid in the late 60s and 1970s, the area was declared “whites only”; although, only 1% of the current population was white.   Residents were forced to move miles away to a deserted flat and the houses and businesses bulldozed.

The government gave four reasons for the removals:  interracial interaction lead to conflict so the races needed to be separate, District Six was a slum which was not fit for rehabilitation, the area was filled with criminals and crime, and it was also filled with immoral activities such as gambling, drinking, and prostitution.  Many residents believed the land was coveted due to its location close to the city center, the harbor, and Table Mountain.

Although plans were made for District Six, the only development has been a small educational facility.  Today, the area is memorialized for its distinctive history.  We visited the District Six Museum which remembers the sad era of apartheid along with the culture of the area.

I was spoiled (?) during our previous days where water was provided on all tours and in our rooms.  During the post-trip, the hotel only gave us ONE small bottle of water and none was available on the tour.  It was a hot day, and even though I had bought water at Table Mountain, I was soon dehydrated and not feeling well.  Along with the traffic and noise, I was not happy!

Purchasing a liter and another smaller bottle of water, I guzzled the liter without stopping and felt better.  Thank goodness so I could enjoy the rest of the day.  As they say, the best is yet to come!

Touring the townships and learning about apartheid was educational and depressing.  It is such a sad part of South African history that they are still struggling to recover from.  Many of the residents have small businesses, and we stopped by a local woman scraping and preparing sheep heads.  This is considered a delicacy where they are charred over an open flame.  If I had felt better, I would have welcomed this interesting afternoon snack!

We parked at our next stop, walked through a tight knit group of men, and ducked into a narrow dark opening where two candles barely illuminated the area.  Standing before us draped in fur robes of indeterminate origin was the local witch doctor!  

As we sit down on benches surrounded by hanging herbs and animal skulls and parts which all contributed to an interesting and not totally pleasant odor, he welcomed us and asked if anyone had a complaint he could cure.  I was dumb struck just taking in my surroundings!

He explained witch doctors are a special calling passed on from generation to generation and you are born into the profession rather than trained.  He receives many of his prophesies in visions, and his customers seek cures for medical ailments, spiritual problems, relationship and love difficulties and the occasional hex.  

He talked continuously while answering a few questions.  He was in such high gear I wondered if he was using some of his own special herbs!  It was one of the most fascinating and unusual experiences of my life!

CapeTown is experiencing a wave of crime,  and we were notified both through the US State Dept and Noss to be careful outside the hotel.  We were advised not to leave at all after dark and to remain in a group during the day.  Robyn and I had a quick dinner at the hotel and prepared for tomorrow.  

Another day in Africa!